Cheap, Easy & Effective Detonator Tutorial

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Cheap, Easy & Effective Detonator Tutorial

Post by El Brenty »

So here it is at last:

Brent’s (CamClub) Low-budget Easy Electrical Detonator!

Okay, as promised long ago, here it finally is, a method to very cheaply produce your own detonators for your film-making explosion effects on a shoestring budget!

This system is reasonably safe, and you have good control over the way it works. The detonator can be mixed with loads of different things to form squibs, and can be made to go off twice! The detonators can be saved and re-primed for future use.

There’s other ideas like this one, but this one is tried and tested, and importantly, safe, over other methods! Some folks have used sewing needles in jump leads hooked up to car batteries. These methods can damage the battery plates, and are not always instantaneous enough to work on demand. Jump leads on wire-wool is similar, but not very localised, and a again, a bit unpredictable.

What U need:

Wire – 1.5mm Twin & Earth solid core
1.5mm stranded Flexible appliance cable
Battery - Car battery is ideal – Alternative needs to provide good amperage.
Wire cutters/strippers.
Electrical tape

Step 1 - Get some wire!

I use 2 types of wire – One for the signal cable, and the other as the actual detonation fuse wire. I don’t use shop-bought fuse wire, I make my own, it takes longer to burn out, so the result is better, plus it's a lot lot cheaper. I’m using the term fuse here because it’s effectively a wire that burns out and breaks the circuit, although acts as a detonator in the process.

Signal cable: You don’t want this wire to burn out, especially if you’ve concealed it somewhere for your film. I use 1.5mm solid twin & earth – You will see this used widely for household electrical circuits (Usually lighting and low-load), and you can buy it anywhere that sells household electrical cabling. Some places may sell it to you by the foot (Or metre), but I but it in 30M drums, because I use it for exploding balloon systems. It doesn’t cost a fortune either.

On one occasion I had to do 30m cable runs for a big ball-room, so I used 2.5mm Twin & Earth instead, just to make sure the current got all the way along with wire without finding any weak-spots, then connected 1.5mm Twin & Earth detonators (Like you're about to make) to the end, so they'd burn out in case of a short circuit.

Fuse Wire : For this I strip down stranded 3 core 1.5mm flexible cable. You would use this type of cable on electrical appliances. You don’t want the strands too thin (For instance headphone speaker wire), as it may burn out too quickly, and not spread the heat around enough to where it’s needed.

Again, you don’t want it too thick, because the signal cable will start burning out, and you can also wreck your battery. You can use this cable instead of the signal cable described above, but you may get unpredictable results from current not being carried properly across wires, especially if the wire you’re using is old or has started oxidising.

Image
(Picture 1), you’ll see the signal cabling with the white insulation layer stripped back. My wire-strippers are in the picture as well.


Okay, now’s the time to start stripping! On the stranded wire, cut off a length, probably about 4â€
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Post by Twabi2 »

nice thinking
altough, it involves a car battery, and i think it's a bit exspensive to buy a car or a car battery...

Also, here's a hint: go to an electric shop, you'll be suprised how thin the smallest wires are, no more stripping...
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Post by El Brenty »

You don't need a car battery. When I first created this, I used 3X 9 Volt batteries hooked up together in parallel to give extra current, and it worked fine, just took a bit longer for the wire to burn out. You can get a cheap no-frills car battery here for about £15. I don't think that's expensive. The charge on it will last 1000s of detonations as well, and you can recharge it countless times.

Yep, if you can get the fine wires you need already then great. I just happen to have loads of stranded wire available, because I buy wire on large drums normally.
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Post by Twabi2 »

£15 = €??
and how would i recharge it?

man, i was thinking about what i could do if it worked, aaah, just great!!
could you make caps (for capsgun, you know?) explode with this system? The only 2 ways i found to make 'em explode were:
*use a capsgun
*cut 1 cap out a ring, light a match, pick the cap up with the match-head, watch it explode
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Post by El Brenty »

Probably about 30 Euros, perhaps cheaper there though! Any standard car battery charger from any shop that sells car parts and accessories shop will do! Most people have one lying around in the garage. Old car batteries will also work, they won't have enough charge to start a car properly, but will have to burn out the fuse wire.

You can use it with caps, but they tend to flash, rather than pop, in a similar way to how they'd react to the match. Make a slit in the walls of the cap so you can slide the fuse wire in, and put some insulation tape around the rest of the fuse-wire to prevent it burning in the wrong place.
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Post by Twabi2 »

but why do i hear i big bang when i shoot a capsgun? you can't hear flashes (well, i can't)
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Post by El Brenty »

It's because the gunpowder gets compressed from the action of the gun's hammer hitting the cap, so it bangs!
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Post by Twabi2 »

so if i compress a cap (by using tape or something) it wil bang?
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Post by El Brenty »

Er, it should, but that's something you'll have to try for yourself. It app depends on how much you're able to pressurise the gunpowder. For instance:

Party poppers have gunpowder that's coated onto paper tape (Lightly gummed). The manufacturers then wrap the paper around the string. Eventually it dries, and gets inserted into the party popper casing, and gets blown when you pull the string - The paper compressed the gunpowder. If you were able to create something that used the fuse wire instead of a pull string, then it would indeed work very well and go off with a great bang! Fireworks work on a similar principal - Their cases are made from paper, which gives enough resistance to cause a bang, but not too much to completely contain all the explosion.

Anyone have any suggestions on what else the fuse wire could be used with for specifically making a bang?
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Post by Ivan Speilberg »

I do however grant anyone permission to use this system royalty free as Public Domain. Anyone claiming they have invented this will be detonated!
My Boy Scout Troop have been using this same detonator for the past 6 years, the only dif, here is that we use switches, not a nail board , that way if there is like a 3 secs. delay , you flik all the switches "on" in a secuence and after the delay, the effects detonate in the same secuence in wich ther were turned on. It works every time. My father designed it , he is an electrician graduated from M.I.T.

To ensure that things will detonate/fire , we use a 5-6 inch. thin wire and about 4-5 matches. Just wrap the wire around the matchheads and there will be a small flame to detonate FFFG gun powder. If a longer/bigger/steadyer flame is needed, we cut a "Cotex" sanitary towel by half and then we soak it in kerosene. It will not evaporate for about 2 hours!!!!. Place the "Kotex"above the matches. We (my Boy Scouts Troop) use this to "magicly" fire a campfire in special ceremonies. This also works very good to detonate gas-filled balloons or other fx that need a bigger flame to go off.
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Post by El Brenty »

Like I say, it's such a simple system, everyone should use it, and it doesn't surprise me to hear that the boy-scouts are using something so similar already! It's such a basic principal of current and resistance of wire (Or lack of it). It's done me well for the past few years with balloon detonations at parties. I usually use a switch-box for detonating individual balloons, the effect is instant the moment you hit the switch, but I described a nail-board system as this is a untra-low budget system that people could almost make up from bits they find around the place.

I love the auto-camp-fire idea!

What do you use as the power-source?

Keep them coming.
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Post by padawanNick »

Y'know...
Steel wool burns really well.
I wonder of a strand of steel from a cleaning pad might "fire" more readily than copper ??

Also, thinking about if those large 6V flashlight batteries (y'know, with the springs on top) would work well enough??

Mmmm.
Sounds like fun.
Might have to give this a try some day.

Have fun.
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Post by El Brenty »

Steel-wool works well if you want a flaming effect. The detonator I posted is designed more for instant triggering for an explosion. The problem with using steel-wool is that you're increasing the resistance, so retarding the effect. It doesn't really matter what wire you use, although for a detonator you don't want it to burn out immediately - You need the wire to get hot enough to have the effect you desire. All I can say is experiment with different materials, see what happens. I wonder how well a strip of magnesium would work with this.
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Post by slimdog55 »

When I went to the Home Depot the other day, I was looking at the wires. Do I get the wires that have the 3 individual wires inside, or the ones with 2 inside? And how do I connect the wires to the car battery and nails? Do I just strip the insulation of the inside wire and then wrap it around the battery's power (+ or-) and just wrap it around the nail? I got to get all of these question answered before I do any tests.(Which won't be untill the summer because of the cold shitty weather here. :x )
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Post by El Brenty »

All you need is 2 wires, but if you get twin and earth (3 wires), it gives you the opportunity of adding a second detonator somewhere down the line without running extra cable. There's hardly any difference in price either.

To connect the wires to the car battery, just strip them down and loop them around the terminals. You may want to clean the terminals first with a wire-brush to ensure good contact. Twist the end of the wire around into itself to get a better grip.

Same thing goes with the nails. Just twist the wire around. I use switches rated at 30A, but these cost money, and the idea of what I have posted is to keep the costs right down. The system doesn't depend of polarity, so it doesn't matter which way you attach the wires to the battery. If you want to be jobsworth about it though, the + is equivilent to the LIVE wire (USA, this is usually white, UK, it's red in household cabling, or brown in appliance cabling. The earth which you don't need unless you use it as a common wire for 2 or more circuits is either green, green and yellow striped or bare, and the neutral or negative wire is black or blue depending on the cable). Like I say, it doesn't really matter, so long as you know which colour wire ends up where.

One thing I didn't mention, it's usually a good idea to rinse a car battery off under a hose before you start handling it too much. Quite often, there's battery acid residue over the battery, and you may find that some of your clothes that make contact with the residue may get eaten! Skin is usually a bit more forgiving.
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Post by thewarmovie »

Yea, i've been using the switch idea for a while.
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Post by Famous »

You could work on this website
Tropical Films/Short Film Industries.
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Post by Famous »

Can you summerize that?
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Post by El Brenty »

Sumerise what exactly?
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Post by Famous »

Well shorten the idea of yours.
I really need help.
Can I use 9 volt battery?
And I have caps can you tell me where to put the wire?
Thanks alot
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Post by El Brenty »

LOL! How can I shorten it? It's 2 thick wires and a thin one between! How much simpler can that be? Ignore the nail-board if you want, that's just an easy-to make way of adding in a switch if you don't want to spend money on proper switches. Get thick wire, add thin wire, connect to battery!

If that hasn't helped, what do you need help with? It should be quite straight-forward. Where am I losing you?

It's not the voltage of the battery that's important, but the current. You may have to use at least a couple of regular 9V batteries for it to work, and it could take a moment for the fuse wire to heat up enough for it to melt. When I initially created this idea for exploding balloons, I started with 3 X 1.5V D-type batteries, and it worked a treat, took about 10 seconds for the wire to heat up. Car battery is just so instant, and workes better if you have a long distance for the current to travel.

You're on the wrong thread if you want an answer to do with caps! This is a detonator aimed mainly as starting fires and explosions instanteneously. Why do you want to use caps, and what type of caps are they? If all you want to do is make a loud bang, then there's a different tutorial for that.
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Post by Famous »

I ment Shorten The information
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Post by Famous »

I realised again that yes I am double posting but i need to answer your questions.
Anyways.
I've heard you were one of the best in explosions ...
Caps are the roll caps the paper ones.And i thought that i could put the wires on the ends of the gun powder circles.
Anyways Thanks for your help i'll try what you said.
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Post by El Brenty »

The problem with using caps is that they don't always bang. Gunpowder bangs when it's under pressure, otherwise, it just flames up like a match-head.

This detonator is to make something like petrol, or a gunpowder charge explode, but the supplementary equipment has to be set up correctly, otherwise you'll either meet up with an accident, or it won't work

Exactly what effect were you after again? Wasn't it a land-mine?
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paper cap bomb

Post by Slayer »

i don't know if you already know this, but fold the paper caps down so that most caps break open like this
----------------------------------------------
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO <-- fold all the way
----------------------------------------------
then fold it in a zigzag pattern like this
_______________
_______________)
(_______________ <-- put a fuse here
and tape it up whit many layer of tape so it is air thigt
if made right these will make a loud as **** bang and they are quite powerfull with many rolls of caps(once i blowed one a little bit to close and my ears where ringing for 3 minutes).
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