Fake Wall

Ornsack · Post by **Ornsack** » Sun Apr 20, 2003 12:20 am

Puh, minor cuts... Be a man, man!

(Note: I was joking, really, wear safety gear!)

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Sun Apr 20, 2003 12:53 am

You tell him Ornsack!
2 days ago making some Hydrogen for a special effects experiment, the bottle containing the mixture exploded and i was covered in caustic soda. Luckily i was wearing safety gear and only some soda penetrated my jumper. Slight chemical burn to the stomach!
I like it!!!

hanasand · Post by **hanasand** » Sun Apr 20, 2003 1:49 am

Hahah!... I remember when I had an accident with my hand-grenade potato that exploded in my back.. That hurt! but it was cool!

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Sun Apr 20, 2003 2:34 pm

Hanasand I like your style:D

hanasand · Post by **hanasand** » Mon May 05, 2003 9:54 pm

istamista don't be such an a**.. You have not said an intelligent or constructive word so far, so if you feel that you are so much better then everyone I have a suggestion for you..

f*** off ?

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Tue May 06, 2003 5:59 am

There are ripples of flaming inthis forum of late!!!
Are there any socks out there also?:mad:

hanasand · Post by **hanasand** » Tue May 06, 2003 4:25 pm

what the hell?

Why did this reply end up here..?

I wrote it under another post when istamista had said something stupid..

Weird

Towels42 · Post by **Towels42** » Sun Jul 20, 2003 6:14 pm

Although it would be pretty neat to see someone thrown through a sheet of drywall, I have some suggestions....

Drywall is made up of two papery sheets that sandwich a rather thick layer of plaster... after constructing your "mock wall", it may be wise to sand off the paper on the opposite side of where he or she will break through. It would be a shame if your victim, er... actor didn't make it through the wall on the first take!

Using real drywall would make a really cool effect, but making it weaker would be over all better for actor and wallet alike.

foxwood · Post by **foxwood** » Sun Jul 20, 2003 7:54 pm

To make the dry wall weeker you could, on the side not on camera, cut it out almost all the way, just leaving about half of the inside matereal, so that it is extremly weak, but so you still get the dust and the look. And what i would do if you think it woun't look great, pump in some drywall dust, the leftovers, to cover it up a bit.

Lee · Post by **Lee** » Sun Jul 20, 2003 9:51 pm

I agree about weakening the wall as drywall/plasterboard is still rather strong and it only cracks slightly at the hardest punch.

Thanks for all the help guys, keep the comments flooding in!

El Brenty · Post by **El Brenty** » Sun Jul 20, 2003 10:21 pm

Okay, I can't take it anymore! I've gotta tell all! It's really quite easy, y'all are just going about it in a different way! Considering that you first posted this question in March, you've probably finished filming by now, but here goes anyway!

Half the idea comes from padawanNick - He just doesn't realise it yet!

What you need:

(A) Some sheets of Polystyrene - about 4 inches thick (Or glue a few thinner sheets together. You can usually get this from DIY stores, they use polystyrene sheets for insulation in certain applications.

(B) Polystyrene Ceiling Cove & Tile adhesive (Usually sold in tubs, available from most DIY stores). Mix some builder's sand into the adhesive to pad it out, it'll save money.

(C) Cheap grey (gray - US spelling) acryllic paint

(D) Eggshell (Antique ivory) acryllic paint

Here's what to do with it: (Oh behave you lot! LOL)

1. Using a saw, cut even blocks from the polystyrene sheet. Cut blocks about 6" high, by about 12" wide, they'll look a bit like breeze blocks (construction blocks). Sand any knobbly bits with 60 grit sandpaper.

2. Breeze blocks usually have a pattered scoring made in the manufacturing process. Using a screwdriver, or similar, simply score the sides of the bricks!

3. Paint the blocks that'll be in the break-thru area in grey paint. You won't want them to be white, it'll look too much like polystyrene! You don't need much paint, just a light covering.

4. For good effect, find a wall, with a doorway (Door opens out, not in (or remove the door completely)). I may be stating the obvious, but if you don't build this wall against something, the whole thing is likely to collapse on impact, so brace the surrounding parts that are supposed to remain intact, like a REAL wall would!

5. Build the wall across the doorway and across to the edges of your filming frame, using the adhesive as cement, like you're building a real wall! When you've done about 5 courses, allow it to dry, then carry on. The adhesive gives that sandy cement look, when the wall breaks the fall. Don't forget to finish the pointing (Drawing a blunt blade or tip of the trowell along the joints, down, then along - Look, I'm teaching y'all bricklaying now!) before the adhesive dries!!! Lay the bricks so there's about Ã‚Â½" of adhesive mix between bricks.

6. As you get to the top of the doorway, link blocks near the top together with matchsticks (Or toothpicks, or whatever you have) on the horizontal sides. This'll stop all the blocks falling down, as the advesive isn't that strong, whereas real cement is, and we're not using that!

When it's all finished and dried, paint over the whole lot - Eggshell is usually good, it looks like slightly aged paint. Add a few scuff marks, a little shading around the edges perhaps if needed. You could even install a socket faceplate on a section of the wall that doesn't get impacted.

Go for it! Just remember where the doorway was! Anyone remember that advert where these lads wind up their mate in the elevator by placing a false wall by the lift doors? HA! I gotta try that one day! Safeway supermarket, Walton On Thames! Would be a scream!

[Edited on 20-7-2003 by CamClub]